Remote Worker (300W / 200Ah / 2000W + alternator)

Built to keep a mobile office alive: Starlink, two laptops, monitors and a fridge, with enough solar to work through a cloudy day without driving. Budget-leaning LiTime batteries keep the cost down.

System

12V

Solar array

300W

Usable storage

2,400Wh

Runtime / charge

52.4h

Parts total

$1,462

! Works — with one caution

Parts list

Part	Qty	Price	Why this pick
panel Renogy Renogy 100W 12V Monocrystalline Rigid Solar Panel	3×	$297	The default reference 100W rigid panel for small RV/van arrays, widely available with consistent datasheet specs.	Buy at Renogy →
charge controller Renogy Renogy Rover 40A MPPT	1×	$165	Reliable mid-tier MPPT and the default 40A pick for most 200-500W van builds.	Buy at Renogy →
battery LiTime LiTime 12V 100Ah LiFePO4	2×	$460	Top budget pick offering full LiFePO4 capacity at roughly a quarter of premium-brand pricing.	View LiTime listing ↗
inverter Renogy Renogy 2000W 12V Pure Sine Wave Inverter	1×	$270	Popular mid-tier 2000W PSW that handles most van/RV loads like microwaves and induction cooktops on a 12V system.	Buy at Renogy →
DC-DC charger Renogy Renogy DCC30S 30A DC-DC with MPPT	1×	$270	Lower-current sibling of the DCC50S for smaller alternators and compact builds.	Buy at Renogy →
System total		$1,462	Parts only — wire, fuses, mounts and breakers extra.

Affiliate disclosure: Some links here (Renogy) are affiliate links — if you buy through them we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. It never changes which part we recommend: picks are ranked by spec fit across every brand, and non-Renogy parts are listed with neutral source links. Sizing and wiring output is guidance, not an electrical sign-off — verify before buying or wiring.

Compatibility checks

✓ System voltage: All components agree on a 12V system.

✓ Panel ↔ Controller: Your 300W array stays under the 100V PV limit (24.3V ×1.25 cold = 30V per panel; up to 3 in series).

✓ Controller ↔ Battery: Controller charges a 12V bank and tapers correctly for lithium/AGM profiles.

! Inverter ↔ Battery: 2000W needs ~189A from the bank; the bank's 200A is enough but with little margin — fine for intermittent loads, tight for sustained max draw.

Wire & fuse starting point

Run	Max current	Wire (AWG)	Fuse / breaker
Solar array → Charge controller	15A	14 AWG	20A
Charge controller → Battery	40A	8 AWG	50A
Battery → Inverter	185A	4/0 AWG	250A
Alternator / DC-DC → Battery	30A	10 AWG	40A

Wire and fuse sizes are a conservative starting point from each run's max current (×1.25). Run length, temperature and local code can change them — confirm with an electrician. Off-grid DC carries real fire and shock risk.

Solar is deliberately oversized relative to storage so the bank refills during the workday. Two 100Ah batteries provide the ~190A a 2000W inverter peaks at.

Tune this build in the planner →

FAQ

Why 300W of solar for a smaller 1,100Wh/day load?

Remote work is light-sensitive: you need the system to refill during the same daylight hours you're drawing it down. 300W (~945Wh on a 4.5-sun day) keeps the bank topped while Starlink and laptops run, so you're not forced to drive to recharge.

Will a 2000W inverter handle a work setup?

Easily — laptops, monitors and Starlink are a few hundred watts combined. The 2000W headroom is there for an occasional microwave or kettle. Two 100Ah LiTime batteries (a 200A bank) cover the ~190A this inverter peaks at.

Can I run it without the alternator charger?

Yes, but the DCC30S is cheap insurance for a work rig — a couple of cloudy days won't strand your income if you can top up by driving.

Build vetted 2026-06-21 · confidence: high. Prices and specs from each part's linked sources.