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AGM DC-Only Minimal (100W / 100Ah AGM)

The lowest-upfront-cost way to add a little solar to an older RV that still runs lead-acid/AGM. DC loads only. Shown mostly to make the AGM-vs-lithium trade-off concrete — you pay less now but get half the usable capacity and far more weight.

System
12V
Solar array
100W
Usable storage
600Wh
Runtime / charge
36h
Parts total
$380
All compatibility checks pass

Parts list

Part Qty Price Why this pick
panel
Rich Solar Rich Solar MEGA 100W 12V Monocrystalline Solar Panel
$95 Direct Renogy alternative at a slightly lower price, useful when matching an existing Rich Solar array. View Rich Solar listing ↗
charge controller
EPEVER EPEVER Tracer 2210AN MPPT 20A
$75 Lowest-cost true MPPT for small 100-260W builds; strong price-per-amp value. View EPEVER listing ↗
battery
Renogy Renogy 12V 100Ah Deep-Cycle AGM
$210 Included as the lead-acid baseline so the planner can contrast AGM economics against lithium options. Buy at Renogy →
System total $380 Parts only — wire, fuses, mounts and breakers extra.

Affiliate disclosure: Some links here (Renogy) are affiliate links — if you buy through them we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. It never changes which part we recommend: picks are ranked by spec fit across every brand, and non-Renogy parts are listed with neutral source links. Sizing and wiring output is guidance, not an electrical sign-off — verify before buying or wiring.

Compatibility checks

System voltage: All components agree on a 12V system.
Panel ↔ Controller: Your 100W array stays under the 100V PV limit (24.3V ×1.25 cold = 30V per panel; up to 3 in series).
Controller ↔ Battery: Controller charges a 12V bank and tapers correctly for lithium/AGM profiles.

Wire & fuse starting point

RunMax currentWire (AWG)Fuse / breaker
Solar array → Charge controller5A16 AWG10A
Charge controller → Battery20A12 AWG25A

Wire and fuse sizes are a conservative starting point from each run's max current (×1.25). Run length, temperature and local code can change them — confirm with an electrician. Off-grid DC carries real fire and shock risk.

Deliberate teaching build: AGM at 50% depth and ~50A continuous limits what you can bolt on. Kept DC-only and single-voltage for a clean, safe minimal system.

Tune this build in the planner →

FAQ

Why is the usable capacity only ~600Wh from a 100Ah battery?

AGM should only be discharged to about 50% to avoid killing its lifespan, so a 100Ah AGM gives ~600Wh usable versus ~1,200Wh from a 100Ah LiFePO4. That's the core AGM trade-off.

Should I just buy lithium instead?

For most new builds, yes — LiFePO4 has dropped enough that the cost-per-usable-Wh now favors it, and it's half the weight. AGM still makes sense if your budget is tight today or you're extending an existing lead-acid system.

Why no inverter?

AGM's lower continuous-discharge rating makes it a poor match for a big inverter, and this build targets simple DC loads. If you need 120V, move to a lithium build sized for the inverter's current draw.

Build vetted 2026-06-21 · confidence: high. Prices and specs from each part's linked sources.